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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.